Lived in California for many, many years, in various cities. Never Modesto, but I can say for sure that Modesto is the butt of every joke when people (from CA) want to cite an awful place. That whole stretch of the San Joaquin Valley, from Stockton to Bakersfield, is typically called "Calabama," and Modesto is right in the middle. It is truly a dump.
And, @JPFC: your inability to get through/enjoy Ulysses is explained in full by your love of Atlas Shrugged.
I will throw-down for Hothouse by Brian Aldiss.